Riding the Birdsville track takes you on an adventure across three deserts, on one of the most iconic roads in the Australian Outback. Travelling for 517 km, you’ll experience varying scenery and some of the driest areas in the country. The road runs between the town of Marree, South Australia and Birdsville, Queensland and enjoys a rich history. Formally a stock route, it has evolved into a fairly well traveled, though tough, off road route, enjoyed by increasing numbers of 4×4 drivers and bikers each year. From the yellow dunes of the Natterannie Sandhills to the vivid red stones of the Sturt Stoney desert, it’s a ride worth taking some time with.
Planning your ride on the Birdsville Track
The Birdsville Track can be accessed from either end and many travellers tend to use it to cut across the country. From Birdsville one can ride to Brisbane and the Gold Coast, or Alice Springs. From Marree, the road can be accessed from the Outback Highway.
Around 200 km or so from Birdsville, the track divides into the newer outside track, which bypasses the floodplains of the Diamantina river. The inside track is rarely maintained these days and can be in a poor state of disrepair.
Road surface
In recent years the road quality has improved and riders can now enjoy a graded dirt track. While many 4×4 drivers may consider this just another highway, it can be dangerous and a little tricky on a bike. Thick layers of large round stones – gibbers – make up the majority of the road, which can become slippery. However, a road tourer equipped with the correct tyres should be able to handle it.
Traffic
While this Birdsville Track is remote, it is increasing in popularity and can be busier during peak months, April – October. You’re most likely to encounter 4×4 drivers, some of whom may be towing trailers. Stones can be kicked up so it is worth keeping your distance and taking it easy. The first weekend of September is usually busy as the famous Birdsville races are on over that weekend.
Fuel
There’s only one stop for fuel along the Birdsville Track. Indeed, the Mungerannie Roadhouse is the only place to stop of for food, drink and gas along the way. It’s located about halfway along the track, 205 km from Marree and 315 km from Birdsville.
Accommodation
While the Birdsville Track can be completed in one day, it’s worth taking a bit of time with it, in order to enjoy the scenery and see the sights. The Mungerannie hotel offers fifteen rooms as well as camping facilities. During peak seasons you may want to get there early to secure a spot! Both Marree and Birdsville also offer accommodation options.
Food
The only place to stop for food and drink along the route is the Mungerannie roadhouse. Despite the remote location, they serve a fairly varied menu from breakfast to dinner, including bacon rolls, burgers, meat pies, steaks and desserts.
Weather considerations
Avoid travelling this route during the scorching summer months (November to March) as the heat is almost unbearable. Rain is infrequent in this area but when it does rain, parts of the road are known to get washed out. Flash floods are not unheard of either and the general consensus is that if it’s forecast rain, you should postpone your trip. Signs at both ends of the track will advise whether any section of the road is closed due to flooding.
Sights
There isn’t a huge amount to see and do in this neck of the woods, other than enjoy the surroundings. That’s not to say it should be blitzed through however. Stop off at the Mungerannie roadhouse for a night or two, enjoy a cold beer in the pub or relax in the wetlands nearby. There are a few ruins one can visit, mostly old roadhouses and stores from days gone by. The Cannuwaukaninna Bore provides stunning wetlands and a great place to stop for a break. It’s also one of the most accessible of the many artesian bores along the route. The water does tend to pour out at near boiling temperatures though, so take care!