A Motorcycle tour of the Buller Gorge puts you in the region of one of the world’s most scenic rides. For this reason, it is by far the most popular route in New Zealand and unless you’ve had a sneak peak at Eden itself, the journey will rank high on your list of boasting rights.
This route begins at adjective-defying Punakaiki, where the coast is defined by mesmerising rock formations and blowholes. It continues along the absurdly scenic coastal route to Murchison, the beating heart of NZ’s whitewater adventures with its high concentration of rivers and world class rapids. This is the leg where you’ll ride alongside the Buller River itself, en route to the unspoilt wilderness of Buller Gorge. Like the waterways of the region, the (well maintained) roads that have been carved through the gorge flow and meander almost as if they had been designed specifically for motorcyclists.
Planning Your Ride on Buller Gorge
Highlights
Kahurangi National Park and onwards to Punakaiki’s ‘Pancake Rocks’, which are reached by a walk through native forest offering marvellous views of the hinterland until you come out at the unforgettable coastal vista. Best to time this side trip at high tide.
It’s well worth factoring in an overnight stay in the Punakaiki area so that you have more time to blast south and explore some of the region’s bays and beaches before heading north to Buller Gorge.
For anyone that’s also keen on kayaking or rafting, the Murchison region is a Promised Land and for those keen on two wheels of a different kind, hit the Old Ghost Road mountain bike trail.
The Lewis Pass is about 100 km southeast of the Buller Gorge swing bridge and can be factored into an extended tour heading to Christchurch. It delivers some terrific bends that are heaven sent for motorcyclists but be on the lookout for patrol cars policing the area looking for people having too much fun! This section is at its most vibrant in Autumn.
Accommodation
Humble motels and hostels start from around $15 NZD. The Punakaiki Beach Hostel for example is an idyllic and low cost option right on the beach. It’s worth joining the YHA before you go to New Zealand for some reduced rates. The Punakaiki Beach Camp is a campground offering cabins as well as powered/non-powered sites. It’s ideally located close to the beach with surrounding views of the National Park.
If you’re feeling indulgent, the Punakaiki area offers charming eco lodges and cottages to add a honeymoon edge to the adventure! The Hydrangea Cottages are a very reputable option.
Food
Although the Buller Gorge region is a wild pocket of a wild country, you’re never too far from a village or your next stop on an extended journey. Therefore, it’s not necessary to stock up on too many supplies; instead, sample as much of the local food and drink as possible. New Zealand greenlip mussels are a must-try while you’re on the coast.
Money and Fuel
The same goes for all of New Zealand: make the most of services in major towns and cities, just in case you find yourself in a village whose ATM is out of order or fuel pump is broken. It’s unlikely but not unheard of in remote parts. Being in such a scenic part of the world, there is always a temptation to deviate from your itinerary so it’s worth carrying extra fuel.
Weather
New Zealand as a whole is best experienced in summer, from December to February. Spring, from September to November, is also a good option and you’ll be more likely to find deals on accommodation.
Autumn, from March to April can make for a photographers dream along inland sections where the leaves are changing colour but rain is more likely and camping is certainly more of an effort. Winter on a motorcycle is downright treacherous with harsh cross winds coming off the ocean, snow and ice.
Timing/Itinerary
The round trip from Punakaiki to Murchison via the Buller Gorge and back is about 300 km, so it’s manageable if you’re short on time. It’s also a perfect leg on a longer tour of the northern section of the south island that could be done in of a couple of weeks plus. The latter is what I would recommend to really get a feel for this part of the world. For example (maps below), you could begin in Christchurch and head north west via Arthur’s Pass to Punakaiki, make the journey to Buller Gorge and head back to Christchurch, which would be around 700 km. Or you could do that route but instead of heading back to Christchurch you could continue north to the Motueka region and the incredible Abel Tasman NP, take the ferry from Picton across to Wellington and continue north.
