Riding the Carretera Austral (CH-7) takes you on a 1,240 km adventure through Chilean Patagonia. This epic ride meanders through some of the most incredible scenery in the world, between Puerto Montt in the north and Villa O’Higgins in the south. Snow capped rocky mountains loom ever present, while lush green forests shelter amazing wildlife. The lakes and glaciers along the way are unlike anything you’d see elsewhere in the world. It’s no wonder that the Carretera Austral is often referred to as one of the most scenic rides in the world. Aside from nature, enjoy the small settlements and the warm people who inhabit this sparsely populated land.
Planning your ride on the Carretera Austral
The Carretera Austral begins at Puerto Montt, easily reached from the Pan American Highway. Starting from the south (Villa O’Higgins) is not possible by motorbike, as it is a dead end. Heading south, you will encounter four ferry crossings in total. With a bike you should be okay to turn up and get on, although in peak season it may be worth booking ahead.
Alternatively, from Isla Grande de Chiloé a weekly ferry can be taken from Quellón to Chaiten. During summer months, crossings are more frequent, up to three times a week. The crossing takes five hours. From Chaiten, simply head south, just beware, if you ride all the way to Villa O’Higgins, you will have to ride back the same way for about 300km.
Road conditions
The majority of the Carretera Austral is a well kept gravel track. Efforts to improve and upgrade the road to tarmac are underway, with around 30% of the route now paved. The paved areas are mostly on the northern end of the route, between Puerto Montt and Villa Cerro Castillo. After this point it’s mostly gravel, however, it’s hard packed and in good condition. Some sections are worse than others, with large potholes and washed out roads. Most road bikes will be able to handle it as long as care is taken. It’s a two track road for much of its length, though it does narrow to a single lane on some of the steeper climbs.
Traffic is unlikely to be an issue in this sparsely populated area. The locals may drive fast and a little dangerously, but more often than not you’ll be alone on the road, especially on the southern stretches.
Fuel can be bought at more or less every settlement along the Carretera Austral and bikes with a range of 200 km or more will be fine. It is worth taking cash out at the beginning of the route as you’re unlikely to find ATMs as you head south. The fuel in Villa O’Higgins is very expensive, so you may want to consider taking a spare can.
Accommodation
Accommodation of all types can be found along the majority of the Carretera Austral, from expensive hotels in the larger towns, to hostels and cabins in the smaller settlements and tourist areas. Well equipped campsites are dotted throughout the route as well and wild camping can be done in some fantastic areas. Just be aware that wild camping in national parks is illegal. It’s well worth taking camping gear. If you’re stuck, ask the locals who may allow you to set up camp on their land. Most hostels also offer camping.
Food
Cafes, restaurants and shops can all be found in the larger settlements, but once you get further south these amenities become few and far between. It’s advisable to pack food for the journey. Picnics are a great idea in this stunning land. Salmon is a good choice for fish lovers as it is farmed and caught wild throughout this region.
Weather considerations
Pack wet weather gear as the conditions along the route are wont to change, especially in the more mountainous regions. Mist can be another issue and can seemingly appear from nowhere on a bright sunny day. The southern sun get’s very hot so be sure to pack sun cream.
Sights
Cutting through over ten national parks and nature reserves, the Carretera Austral offers spectacular natural wonders. Try and pick up a hiking trail, or enjoy a boat trip. White water rafting is another popular endeavor. Some of the more popular sights include;
Ventisquero Colgante (The hanging glacier) in the Queulat national park
Termas del Ventisquero, a series of hot springs
The marble caves of Lago General Carrera
La Junta is a popular, buzzing town and a great place to stay the night
There are also many side roads that are worth exploring, to visit both towns and areas of natural beauty.
