If you’re into riding big mountain passes, Chile’s Route 23 will be one of the most unforgettable adventures you’ll ever embark on. The gravel road from San Pedro de Atacama to Sico Pass on the border with Argentina is populated with some of the most beautiful (albeit it barren) high-altitude scenery and the challenging ride will be a feat to remember.
Planning Your Ride on Chile’s Route 23 While Route 23 crosses some fairly unforgiving terrain, it’s short length makes it possible to do this as a day trip if you start early enough. However, if you’re feeling like taking it slower or want to stop for more photos, an overnight trip will require a bit more planning.
While this can be done as an out and back ride to the Argentinian immigration checkpoint, it’s also possible to cross the border and continue on to San Antonio de los Cobres (90 miles past the border) and even further to Salta (200 miles). If you do take this route, come prepared with the necessary documents for immigration (passport, bike registration, etc.).
Safety Weather will be the biggest concern on this Chile’s Route 23, with the road reaching heights of over 15,000 feet, it can get quite cold and dangerously windy. In the summer it’s a comfortable 23 degrees C, but in the winter it might be a biting -12 C. Protecting your skin at this high altitude is critical, cover what you can and apply sunscreen on any area that is exposed. Water is also tricky to find, with few natural, drinkable sources – pack everything you’ll need. Come prepared for the worst and you’ll do just fine though.
Fuel Chile’s Route 23 has few reliable fuel sources to count on; it’s best if you bring a reserve canister as your looking at about 230 miles of riding between fill ups. It’s possible that you can find fuel in the villages of Toconao and Socaire, but you shouldn’t count on it.
Accommodations and Food You’ll find very little in terms of food and a place to sleep when riding Chile’s Route 23, outside of San Pedro de Atacama. If you’ve got a friendly face you might score a homestay in one of the villages, but otherwise it’s sleeping in a tent by the side of the road. Camping can be a bit perilous with the large temperature fluctuations, but the clear, starry nights are unforgettable. Be prepared for complete self-sufficiency until you get back to San Pedro de Atacama, whether that means doing this as a day trip or an overnighter.
Sights One of the best attractions in the area is the Alma Observatory , 30 miles from San Pedro de Atacama, as the high altitude and clear weather make it the ideal place for astronomical observations. A tour of the facilities is free, but it books up quickly so it’s best to reserve yourself a spot a few months in advance. Also make sure you head out to Valle de la Luna (Valley of the Moon) , just outside of San Pedro de Atacama, for some spectacular lunar landscapes.
San Pedro de Atacama’s namesake church is another popular attraction as it’s reported to be the second oldest in the country (17th century) . While not particularly flashy, its whitewashed adobe walls and simple construction from local materials makes it a worthwhile visit.
As for the rest of the route, you’ll be treated to some breathtaking views of barren mountains and Martian landscapes. A number of alien-looking salt flats can be found nearby and they’re definitely worth a visit too.
Church in San Pedro de Atacama – Photo Credit: Lenora Enking / CC BY Miscanti Lagoon – Photo Credit: Luca Galuzzi / CC BY Scrubland at Pico Pass – Photo Credit: Vrac / CC BY Featured Image of Police Checkpoint at Pico Pass – Photo Credit: Daniel Peppes Gauer / CC BY
