The Darien Gap, the break in the epic Pan American Highway, is the thorn in the side of every Pan American adventurer. The gap begins in the town of Yaviza, Panama and stretches over 100 km to Turbo in Colombia. It’s notorious for stopping overland travelers firmly in their tracks. Part rainforest, part swamp, with mountains just for a little spice, it’s hard to imagine getting through on foot, let alone on a motorcycle. That’s not to say it hasn’t been done in the past, but these days there are far more dangerous hazards than the terrain itself. The area is teeming with drug traffickers, guerrillas, kidnappers and murders, most of which are armed and extremely dangerous. Far from being a challenge, it’s a death trap. So, if you can’t go through it, how do you cross the Darien gap?
Method #1 for crossing the Darien Gap by Motorcycle – Up and Over
The safest, quickest and seemingly most popular way to cross the Darien Gap is to go over it. Air cargo companies will fly your bike right over the jungle and into Colombia or Panama, depending which way you’re traveling. GIRAG – Air Cargo are by far the most popular company to use. They fly between Bogota and Panama City International Airport. Costs vary, but are in the region of $1000 for a bike and luggage. You will need to arrange personal flights for yourself and these typically cost between $150 – $250. The bike will be packaged on a pallet and wrapped up for protection. It’s advisable to take any valuables with you and take photos of the bike before loading, with a time stamp. This is purely in case the bike is damaged during the journey.
Advantages:
Paperwork (customs, taxes etc) is sorted out before traveling, with the exception of insurance.
Quick
Easy
No danger of sea salt getting into your bike and damaging it
Frequent cargo and personal flights
Disadvantages:
Expensive
Not fully overland
Don’t travel with your bike
Method #2 for crossing the Darien Gap by Motorcycle – Cargo ships
The second most popular method involves taking to the sea. Or, at least your bike will take to the sea, safely tucked inside a shipping container. You will want to share your container with other vehicles if possible, in order to get the best prices. A 20’ container costs in excess of $1500 these days though that price is often changing.
“Ever Logistics” are a good choice, with fair prices and friendly, helpful staff who will even guide you through the paperwork. Contact Boris Jaramillo for more information. They sail between Colon, Panama and Cartagena, Colombia. With the bike safely on the ship, you need to make your own way to Cartagena. There are flights from Panama City Airport, or you can take a catamaran for something a bit different. Colombia Panama Sailing offer safe, reliable and fun trips from Colon to Cartagena, for around $550 per person. Once you and your bike are reunited, customs can take some time, but then you’re away.
Advantages:
It’s possible to share a container to dramatically reduce costs
Paperwork (customs, taxes etc) is sorted out before traveling, with the exception of insurance.
Easy
Possibility to take a more interesting method of personal transport
Disadvantages:
Don’t travel with your bike
Can be expensive if you’re unable to find someone to share your container with
Method #3 for crossing the Darien Gap by Motorcycle – RORO your boat…
Roll on, roll off services (RORO) are another method of getting you and your bike across the Darien Gap. There are a few catamarans and sailing boats that now offer the chance to roll your bike on board, with you with it. This method, though it can be pricey is a great way to travel in style, with your bike and take a well earned rest from the saddle.
Advantages:
Can be cheaper than other methods
Fun
Travel with your bike
More of an experience
Paperwork (customs, taxes etc) is sorted out before traveling, with the exception of insurance.
Disadvantages:
The bike is exposed to sea salt which can cause damage. A few precautions should prevent any major problems.
Bike is more prone to being damaged as it is not packed away
These services get booked up soon and are less regular than other methods. Booking in advance is essential.
Examples of some RORO services
Several names crop up when searching for boats you can ride on with your bike. Below are some of the more popular services and their current status.
Wild Card Sailing – Sailing from Portobelo, Panama to Cartagena, Colombia, the trip takes five days in total, with three days chilling out in the San Blas Islands. The service runs twice a month generally and costs $1,100 for a motorbike up to 1000cc as well as the passenger. The price includes loading and unloading, three meals a day (including one lobster meal) and four to five nights on board. They only take motorcycles from Panama to Colombia and not the other way round due to Colombian officials being unable to advise whether it’s legal or not. With the capacity to fit three bikes on at a time, this service is in high demand and booking ahead is essential.Stahlratte – The Steel Rat has been ferrying bikers and their bikes to and fro for several years and has become a firm favourite. They sail both directions with bikes, between May and November (at the time of writing*). The boat is a classic, with over a hundred years of sailing under her belt. Travelers are expected to pitch in and help out with the day to day tasks on the boat and many feel this adds to the experience. It’s typically a four day trip and the boat sails between Carti and Cartagena. The cost at the time of writing is $550 for the passenger plus $1150 for the bike, including three meals a day.La Poste Maxi – This former round the world racing boat sails from Puerto Lindo to Cartagena. Full information can be obtained by contacting them directly.Fritz the Cat – Another well loved catamaran that sadly sunk in 2012.
Other methods..
There are allegedly other, cheaper methods to cross the Darien Gap, the trouble is that these are certainly not very reliable and getting any solid information is very difficult. One user on the HUBB suggests the following;
“At Colon port look for captain Pedro who runs banana boat called “Dori Gil” and $300 is all it’s going to cost you to transport your motorcycle to Turbo, Colombia. You can take Cuna Indians boat ride to same city for an additional $100 with a stop over at Obaldia and Capurgana for immigration stamp… I did it last year and had a blast…”
While there certainly are ways to cross for a bargain price, you have to search these options out when you’re there. This can lead to weeks of waiting around however and more often than not the crossing will be illegal, dangerous and one hell of an adventure!
The Darien gap has seen its share of proper vehicle ferry crossings over the years, but currently there aren’t any operating at the moment.
With that said, the dreaded Darien doesn’t seem half as impenetrable as it once did. In fact, it could well be the halfway break in your Pan American adventure that you so sorely need. Enjoy a couple of days snorkelling in the Caribbean and eating lobster. You’ll certainly be refreshed when you jump back in the saddle again!
Articles on the Darien Gap
Read more about our experience crossing the Darien Gap by sea in 2011 >>
