El Camino del Diablo means the Devil’s Road, and with good reason. The 150-mile dirt trail through the deserts of southern Arizona has claimed many lives. First Spanish conquistadors searching for gold, followed by Mexican ranchers, then American miners, and finally Mexicans looking for economic opportunities in the U.S. It is a fascinating landscape, but one that requires preparation and caution to ride through.
Planning Your Ride on the El Camino del Diablo
The road runs through some pretty sensitive terrain, near the Mexican border and adjacent to a military bombing rang e (which might still contain some unexploded ordinance). You’ll need a permit to do the ride, a nod to the risk that comes with traversing this remote trail.
Blisteringly hot temperatures during the summer mean riders should avoid the months between May and September. In addition to the extreme heat, the little precipitation that comes during the summer can make the road impassable.
Just on the other side of the border is Mexico’s Federal Highway 2 – a fully paved road running from the metropolis of Mexicali to the city of Sonoyta. Such easy access to the southern side of the border makes it a popular region for smuggling. While these activities are unlikely to be a threat to riders of the El Camino del Diablo, it’s still something to be aware of.
All this being said, the road itself isn’t particularly challenging. Riders with at least some experience on dirt track should have no trouble completing it, so long as they come prepared. It shouldn’t take more than three days to ride, and can be done in two if you make fewer stops.
Accommodations, Food, and Fuel
There are no services along this road – no fuel, no food, no mechanics, and no bathrooms. Emergency services are nowhere nearby; if you get into trouble, you need to be able to get yourself out of it. Make sure your bike is in good condition and that you’ll be able to do any basic repairs on it if necessary. Fuel up beforehand, carry a full jerry can of gas, and bring plenty of food. Everything you need must be carried on the bike.
Before the ride, most people stay in Ajo, a mid-sized town without too many accommodation options, but you should be able to find something for less than $100. At the other end of the road is the city of Yuma, which is much larger and has a range of accommodations to fit any budget. During the night or two that you’ll spend in between them, you’ll need to camp. Camping in the desert means wide temperature variations and no access to water, so come prepared.
Sights
The biggest attraction on the El Camino del Diablo is the natural desert landscape. The Sonoran Desert is the only place the giant Saguaro cactus grows naturally, and is also home to some pretty unique agave and palm plants. You’ll have the chance to spot some mule deer, owls, and several varieties of desert rodents as well. Frightening Gila monsters and rattlesnakes might greet you too, but they’re more afraid of you than you are of them – just keep your distance.
If you’re interested in the history of the road, Bates Well and Tule Well stand as stark reminders of the families that once made this desolate place their home. Clapboard houses still stand there, as the dry desert winds stall their decay. Bates Well is 20 miles from Ajo, and Tule Well is 53 miles past that.
About 90 miles from Ajo, you’ll come across a small mountain range, the Tinajas Atlas . If you climb up the rock outcroppings, you’ll find small depressions in the rock, where water collects. These basins provided a lifeline for desert travelers suffering from dehydration, but the crosses that mark the region indicate that many failed to reach the water in time. If you’re curious to see what America’s southern border looks like in a rural region, a spur road will take you from there down to the border fence.
Cabeza Prieta Wildlife Refuge – Photo Credit: DiverDave / CC BY Spur Road to Tinajas Atlas Mountains – Photo Credit: DiverDave / CC BY Border Patrol Helicopter near U.S.-Mexico Border – Photo Credit: Dan Sorensen / CC BY Featured image shows a trail sign for the El Camino del Diablo Photo Credit: DiverDave / CC BY
