Riding the Tanami Road – also known as the Tanami Track or the McGuire Track – takes you on an adventure through one of Australia’s great deserts. This long distance desert track stretches for just over 1,050 km between Alice Springs and Halls Creek. The road takes in raw and rugged desert scenery in some of the most remote parts of the country. Enjoyed by increasing numbers of adventurers, the road essentially takes a shortcut from major routes, linking Alice Springs with the Kimberley, Western Australia.
Planning your ride on the Tanami Road
The Tanami Road is easily accessed from either end. In the south, ride the Stuart Highway 20 km north from Alice Springs, before turning off onto the Tanami junction. In the north, the road can be joined from the Great Northern Highway, just under 20km from Halls Creek.
Road surface
The road surface varies along the track, but has improved in recent years due to the increase in mining operations in the area. Around 20% of the road consists of two lane, sealed tarmac. This degenerates into graded gravel and dirt for the majority of the route. It’s fairly well maintained but corrugations are inevitable and can be rather deep. Decent clearance is recommended but not strictly necessary in dry conditions. Any bike equipped with suitable tyres and extra fuel should be able to take on this route. Conditions during and after rain are different, with some sections being closed or washed out.
Traffic
This is a popular, fairly accessible route that sees a reasonable amount of traffic. Beware of road trains and service vehicles from the mines, as well as large numbers of 4×4 tours and independent drivers. On the plus side, if things go wrong it’s likely help will shortly pass by.
Fuel
The longest stretch on the Tanami Road without fuel is around 580 km between the communities of Balgo and Yuendumu. The only roadhouse remaining on the track is the Tillmouth Well roadhouse, just under 200 km from Alice Springs. The Aboriginal communities of Yuendumu, Balgo (around 40 km from the main track) and Billiluna also offer fuel. Ensure you have enough fuel to cover you for at least 600 km in case of detours etc. Fuel can of course be purchased in Alice Springs and Halls Creek.
Accommodation
Cabins and camping are offered at the Tillmouth Well Roadhouse, though during busier months it’s worth booking in advance for the cabins. The road can be completed in two days, but there are ample sites to pitch up a tent on the side of the road if you want to take your time and enjoy the experience. Beware of the local wildlife, including snakes, scorpions and kangaroos and be sure to take the necessary precautions. Detours to Lake Gregory or Wolfe Creek offers up some fantastic camping opportunities.
Food
Be sure to pack plenty of food and especially water. There are a number of bores along the Tanami Road, but these are generally not considered safe to drink from. Hot meals are served daily at the Tillmouth Well Roadhouse, from breakfast and lunch to dinner. They have an extensive and varied menu and serve soft and alcoholic drinks with meals. Supplies can be bought from the aforementioned communities along the route.
Weather considerations
The Tanami Road is closed during the monsoon season, between November and February, when the majority of the track becomes washed out. In order to make the most of the dry weather, the best time to travel is from April to September, with August being particularly good. Rain can cause road closures at any time and create difficult conditions, but it does dry up relatively quickly in general.
Paperwork
No paperwork is required to travel the Tanami Road. Fuel and supplies can be bought from the communities without a permit, but you will need one to visit Lake Gregory. These camping permits can be obtained from Paruku IPA offices in Balgo and Mulan.
Sights
Lake Gregory is worth a 200 km round detour if time permits and is a great place to set up camp. The wetlands here play host to many species of birds and offer beautiful sunsets. Wolfe Creek Crater national park is another interesting detour. The site of an epic meteoroid crash thousands of years ago also offers camping, as well excellent photo opportunities and walks. Finally, examples of traditional Aboriginal art can be viewed at a number of locations along the Tanami Road. Check out the gallery at the Tillmouth Well, or drop by the art and cultural centres in Balgo and Billiluna.
