A motorcycle tour of the Wild Atlantic Way is a showcase of the mythical landscape and proud heritage of Ireland’s Atlantic seaboard. Many would argue that it’s even more impressive than touring the infamous Alps and Pyrenees. Rugged coastal cliffs towering over pristine coves frequented only by local fishermen and unmapped mountain tracks that open out onto undulating emerald hinterland are humbling reminders that there are parts of the world man is far from plundering.

The main vein of the Wild Atlantic Way cleaves nine counties and three provinces, from County Donegal’s Inishowen Peninsula in the north, looking out to Scotland’s equally rugged Isle of Islay, down to the southern town of Kinsale in County Cork, on the Celtic Sea. The official 2,500 km route is only part of the story; for a motorcycle you could almost double that figure, with endless off-road possibilities inland and extended legs to Northern Ireland’s Causeway Coast and the otherwise inaccessible peninsulas in the far south west.

National (N) roads have a 100 km/h speed limit and see all types of traffic. They’re generally in good condition, with ample markings and signage. Remember though, this is the Wild Atlantic Way, so on rural legs watch out for deceptively tight corners, livestock and obstructive farm equipment.

Regional (R) roads have a 80 km/h speed limit but you’ll likely be doing 30-50 km/h as they often consist of pot-holed mountain tracks favoured by ambling livestock and tractors. The distances you’ll see on maps and SatNavs for R roads are deceptive, don’t expect to cover a lot of ground quickly.

Although this western flank remains undeveloped and relatively unpopulated, there is the right amount of infrastructure to prevent it being in the ‘desolate’ category. The Irish government have prioritised motorway upgrades in recent years, which is of course mainly for the benefit of cars and buses but for us it means generous stretches of smooth open highway to offset the bone-jarring, nerve-jangling, forget-the-GPS detours that you will most certainly not be able to resist.

Planning Your Ride on the Wild Atlantic Way

Visas/ paperwork

For holders of UK, Australian and U.S passports there are no special visa requirements for short stay tourism in Ireland. However, it is always advisable that you have 6 months minimum validity on your passport, especially if you’re heading on to other countries.
A full, valid driving licence with paper counterpart.
Original bike registration document, not photocopies.
Check your insurance and tax are valid for the duration of your trip.
Double check that your bike insurance covers you for driving in a foreign country. Ideally you want accident recovery and breakdown recovery.
Travel Insurance.
EU plates or country stickers.
It seems that for a temporary visit you are not required to register your vehicle: http://www.revenue.ie/en/tax/vrt/leaflets/temporary-exemption-foreign-registered.html
Although the reasons for EU, Australian and U.S licence holders differs, it would appear that each can ride without international licences on visits less than 12 months: https://www.ndls.ie/holders-of-foreign-licences.html#holders-of-driving-licences-from-other-countries

Highlights

The Wild Atlantic Way is one of Western Europe’s few truly unspoilt frontiers and delivers a lesson in ancient history at every grassy knoll and hard to reach POI. The small single tracks known as ‘boreens’ are virtually impossible to reach in a car, so the places you stop and stare will have been visited by very few other visitors.

The Irish culture
The craic, as they say, is what makes Ireland Irish. It seems there are as many pubs as there are brisk, breathtaking vistas and it’s they welcome weary bikers with open ears and arms. A motorcycle tour of the Wild Atlantic Way is more than just a road trip, it’s the only way to really immerse yourself in the landscape and feel what the hardy locals call home. And who better to regale with your tall tales than the people who know just how you feel!

Lord of The Rings
While the Ring of Kerry is the most popular tourist circuit in Ireland, and with good reason, if you depart from the Iveragh Peninsula and connect to the Skellig Ring you’ll find an altogether less crowded and more motorcycle adventure-oriented ring! At Portmagee you should take the bridge over to Valenti Island and also drive over Coonmaneaspig Pass and the inlets of St. Finan’s Bay. Jump on a boat to the Skellig Islands from either Portmagee or Ballinskelligs. The pair of islands are jagged, rocky outcrops straight from ancient folklore. In the 17th century, the 217 metre Skellig Michael was home to a group of monks and is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Cliffs of Moher
The section from Clifden in Galway, to Kilkee in County Clare follows the Cliffs of Moher, rising 120 metres out of the Atlantic at Hag’s Head to 214 metres north of O’Brien’s Tower. The legendary views are a major tourist attraction but it won’t disappoint. On a clear day you can see the Aran Islands in Galway Bay and the green valleys of Connemara. Go early before the crowds.

The Slieve League Cliffs
From atop the Slieve League you can be see Inishmurry island, home to early Celtic Christian monks.

Donegal’s Coast and Mythical Hinterland
Donegal’s 520 km of stunning rideable coastline delivers some of Europe’s finest seascapes and best touring roads, including the pristine Portsalon Beach. It is the crowning jewel of the Wild Atlantic Way but you’d be remiss to neglect the region’s mountains and highlands as they are equally impressive and a less crowded alternative during peak season in July and August. Be sure to head through Glenveagh National Park, with its 16,000 acres of forest and lakes dotted with ancient castle ruins, wild deer and birds of prey. The Derryveagh Mountains are straight from Tolkien and serve as another reminder that it is nature who reigns supreme here.

Malin Head
Ireland’s northernmost point is not for the inexperienced and can be entered via the north-west stretch of the Inishowen Peninsula.The views across to the Scottish islands give you the feeling of teetering on the edge of the world, in a region that once buzzed with U-boats, allied aircraft and battleships, whose wrecks lie just off the coast. Learn more at Fort Dunree’s museum. After all the riding and history you’ll likely need a pint, luckily the Sea View Tavern overlooking Inishtrahull Sound are there in true Irish style- with hearty fare and full kegs come rain or shine!

Onward Journey

An added bonus for motorcyclists is an extra two or three days along Northern Ireland’s Causeway Coast.

Fuel

Along N roads service stations are easy to find. Most villages will have one, or at least be within easy reach of one. Strangely however, Irish motorways aren’t dotted with services, you’ll have to take a bit of a detour. With this in mind, fuel up and take a spare jerrycan if you’re doing a long stretch on motorways and don’t want to turn off, i.e Dublin to Galway or Cork.

Accommodation

One of the major draw cards of Wild Atlantic Way is the selection of guesthouses, Bed & Breakfasts, hotels, cafes and restaurants ranging from humble campsites to luxurious boutique digs. B&Bs are perhaps the most homely and often best value for money, with the exception of camping of course. A room or two above a pub with personal service and access to dining and local knowledge all one roof- what more could you ask for!

Food

All along the WAW you will be able to sample produce and specialities from small farms and artisans who have perfected their niche in the cottage industry and offer world class food and drink. Because of the pub and cafe culture it’s not necessary to load up on supplies (unless you’re camping) but it is worth asking when you stop how far the next establishment is, some of the rural stretches can turn sour if you’re out in Ireland’s notoriously changeable weather having passed a perfectly good rest spot.

Money

Campsite/hostel: approximately €15 – €25
B&B: approximately €25 – €65 for a B&B
2 to 3 star hotel: approximately €50 – €80

Weather

Best from end March to mid-June, or September to mid-Oct. July-August is peak season for EU holiday makers and the busiest time of year. It is possible to ride from December through February but ill advised. Snow is rare but not unheard of and many of the most spectacular mountainous routes are, which happen to be the most exposed, are off limits. Ice can be a killer and cross winds are deadly.

Timing/ Itinerary

Three to four weeks is a good time frame to get the most out of the route. For shorter time frames, instead of rushing the WAW focus on a section or two and explore every corner. You could undertake a southern leg from Kinsale to Killary Harbour or a northern leg from Killary to Malin Head and Derry, for example.

Plan a route around your points of entry and exit. For example, it might be better to depart from a different air or sea port that which you arrived at if it’s more cost effective for the next leg of a multi-country tour.

If you’re arriving via ferry triple check times and prices. Taking a motorcycle on board a ferry to Ireland is straightforward and many people do it but some operators have awkward schedules so consider when and how you’ll get to port.

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Wild Atlantic Way

Wild Atlantic Way

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