A motorcycle tour of the Mae Hong Son Loop is famous (or maybe notorious!) for its 1,865 bends, which lead you to Thailand’s highest peak and meander on through hill tribe villages largely unaffected by the modern world, laid back hippy hideouts and Mae Hong Son itself- The City of Three Mists, nestled in a deep mountainous valley.
The region has been firmly on the biker bucket list for decades, which may have something to do with the fact that it’s also where you’ll discover Thailand’s best dirt trails. My advice: come for the Loop, stay for an extended taste of the Golden Triangle’s offroad!
Planning Your Ride on the Mae Hong Son Loop
Visas/ paperwork U.K, U.S and Australian passport holders receive a free 30-day visa upon arrival at Thailand’s international airports. Check out our guide on motorcycle touring in Thailand for more info .
Route planning
As with motorcycle touring in other part of Southeast Asia, we recommend GT Rider maps and they have a specific map Mae Hong Song Loop , which can be found easily in Chiang Mai or ordered online.
Motorcycle Rental
Renting is the way to go in Thailand and Chiang Mai has an abundance of rental shops, with most located in or close to the old moated city. Mr. Mechanic is a highly reputable option, although he only has a limited number of bigger bikes and like most places specialises in scooters. At Pop Motorcycle or Tony’s Big Bikes you could find something along the lines of a Kawasaki KLX150 off-road bike or a simply Honda Win 110. AMT used Tony’s Big Bikes on our trip around the Mae Hong Son Loop and can definitely recommend them.
Highlights
Chiang Mai
The loop starts and ends in bustling Chiang Mai, charming capital of the north. Arguably the most liveable city in southeast Asia, Chiang Mai has all the modern comforts and services of any developed city, with the buzz of a backpacker hub, hundreds of ancient Buddhist temples, street food to rival any cuisine in the world and none of the commercial/commuter hustle of Bangkok. It’s easy to see why there are so many expat motorcycle enthusiasts based here- you might just become one of them!
Doi Inthanon National Park
The first major landmark on the clockwise south-to-north loop is Thailand’s highest peak, reached by narrow roads carved into the mountainside, dotted with waterfalls and spectacular views of the national park. Not challenging riding but when timed with a sunrise descent, truly memorable.
Mae Sariang
This relaxing little riverside village is the perfect place to stop for a night and should you be of the hiking ilk, an ideal base to spend a day on foot exploring the region.
Mae Hong Song
Stay in a guesthouses near Chong Kham Lake and gorge on Thai food at the night market. Definitely head up to Wat Phra That Doi Kong Mu, a monastery with incredible views over the valley. It’s best seen at sunrise followed by a morning blast to the next stop.
Cave Lodge
Close to the town of Soppong and heading towards some of the most scenic terrain on the whole ride, this riverside guest house in the middle of the forest can give you concise information about side trips in the local area and the hilltribe villages that are a photographers dream.
Pai
Once a sleepy hippy village, favoured by those wanting to retreat from the comparative hustle and bustle of Chiang Mai, Pai is now very much in vogue as a trendy and scenic getaway, even amongst Thai tourists. Riding in this area unveils quintessential northern Thailand; impossibly green paddy fields, High Definition sunsets and villagers manning roadside BBQs feeding grubby travellers. From Pai, you could continue into Myanmar for a taste of truly untapped southeast Asia.
Outside of Pai
The clockwise route leaves the best ‘till last. As you ride out through Pai’s expanse of paddy fields it’s time to knuckle down on route 1095, where the majority of the famous hairpins and seemingly endless bends exist. The road surface is gravelly and near head-on encounters with buses are likely, so take it easy. As easy as you can in such an exhilarating place that is!
After Pai
En route back to Chiang Mai I highly recommend you take a 80km detour to Chiang Dao, a town hiding amidst giant limestone cliffs. The road is good and means you can safely (ish) be distracted by the incredible scenery.
Fuel
Proper service stations are in abundance in Chiang Mai and along the first 50km as you head out of the city. Afterwards you’ll encounter plenty of roadside shacks selling gasoline in glass bottles that look like moonshine! For guaranteed clean fuel and/or possible detours, fill jerrycans from a service station.
Accommodation
The old city in Chiang Mai presents shoulder-to-shoulder accommodation, from budget hostels to Air B&B and luxurious boutique guesthouses. You can find a bed in a comfy mid-range guesthouse for about 400-600 baht (USD$12-20), within easy reach of all amenities and services. On the road – book ahead in high season, especially around Christmas and New Year. The GT Rider map has a range of suggestions that we found very useful on our trip. Riding in May it was easy enough to find accommodation as we rolled into each town.
Food
As well as the exotic landscape and the fascinating culture of northern Thailand, the food memories will surely stay with you forever. Instead of a simple “hello” (“sawatdee”), locals often greet one another with “kin khao rue yang?”, meaning “have you eaten?”, followed by an impromptu roadside cook-off at any time of the day or night! Some must-try dishes are:
Khao soi, a coconut milk soup topped with crispy noodles
Spicy sausages, which you’ll see on BBQs everywhere
BBQ’d chicken with sticky rice, fresh herbs and hot dipping sauce
Mountain coffee- should you be running low on fuel, this potent brew might just have enough kick to power your bike!
Laab, a spicy salad of cooked minced meat with heaps of fresh herbs.
Money
Withdrawing bulk cash from an ATM in Chiang Mai (usually 200-250 Baht fee, max withdrawal 20,000 Baht) is recommended for your trip on the Mae Hong Son Loop. Even modern guesthouses and bike rental shops will be cash only.
Weather
The best time of year to ride the Mae Hong Son Loop (and to be in northern Thailand in general) is end November to early March. The mornings and evenings are cool and the days are full of sunshine, hanging in the 25-30 degree celsius range. The Mae Hong Son area is stiflingly hot March – July and is humid and wet July- October.
Timing/ Itinerary
The Mae Hong Son Loop proper is 670 kilometers and you can happily spend 4-5 days on it with stops at the above mentioned places or anywhere else that takes your fancy. Dirt bike fiends, however, should allow around 8-9 days to get lost on the excellent network of jungle and mountain trails.
The highlights mentioned above reference a clockwise route, which delivers smooth cruisey roads as you head to Pai and the more challenging hairpin strew sections in the second half of the journey.
Photo credit: Alexis Gravel / CC BY Photo credit: Alexis Gravel / CC BY Photo credit: Alexis Gravel / CC BY Photo credit: Alexis Gravel / CC BY 