Riding the BAM road in Russia is not an experience that can be accurately described in words alone. Indeed, even with photos and videos, it’s hard to capture the true spirit of the animal that is the BAM. The Baikal Amur Mainline is Russia’s second railway line cutting across Siberia. The BAM road is little more than an old service road used during the construction of the railway. The mostly unmaintained road tumbles and bumps for 4,300km between Bratsk and Vanino. This is one for the adventurers, though few have successfully completed the entire route. Bogs, river crossings, gravel tracks and broken bridges are all to be expected, as well as mental and physical exhaustion. Also expect unrivalled hospitality from the locals, stunning scenery and the adventure of a lifetime.
Planning your ride on the BAM road
The BAM road is typically split into West and East, with the former being considered the easier of the two halves. It can be started from either end, depending on where you’re coming from, but Bratsk – the start of the West BAM, is easily accessed from the Trans Siberian Highway.
Along the several thousands of kilometres you’re likely to see just about every road surface known to man, as well as a few that aren’t! There are asphalted sections, though the majority is graded gravel. However, over certain sections expect the road to have deteriorated to nothing but bog and mud. Prepare also for wooden bridges. The usability of the road is determined by recent weather. If it’s been dry then the road is a whole lot more passable, but a week of rain will result in higher, faster flowing river crossings as well as muddy, swampy sections. A light bike capable of off roading is essential.
Anyone heading for the BAM road, especially the East BAM should be aware that they are more or less dropping off the radar. There are small villages and towns supporting the railway line, but the route is mostly empty. Traffic doesn’t exist, though you may come across fellow adventurers. Other than that you will see the occasional truck. Hope that you will, as they may be your only means of crossing a river.
Fuel can be found along much of the route, though it is advisable to carry a fuel can if possible as fuel stops can be few and far between. Some villages may not have an official gas station, though locals can point you to the guy that sells it in his backyard.
Accommodation
Depending on the time of year, camping in Siberia can either be an amazing experience, or a mosquito filled nightmare. Mosquitoes are at their worst in late summer and camping should only be a last resort at this time. Fortunately most of the villages and towns along the way will be able to provide a hotel. More often than not however, the locals will be happy to host you. There will be nights spent in the wild, though there are several old huts and shelters to be found near the railway line. It may not be five star, but it’ll be warm, dry and sheltered, all you need after a hard day on the BAM.
Food
Enjoy local delicacies while you can in the larger towns. Fantastic soups, Pelmeni (dumplings) and other hearty meals will keep you fuelled for the long days ahead. Always carry a good supply of fresh water and simple food to keep you going for the many long stretches between villages.
Weather considerations
For motorbikes, the BAM is inaccessible for much of the year, due to sub freezing temperatures. It’s best ridden during the summer months, between June and August. While not impossible earlier or later, the conditions can be unpredictable, even June can be too early some years. Rain and storms can bubble up out of nowhere in this part of the world, and like everything in Siberia, they are normally extreme. Rain can transform a dirt track into a near impassable bog in minutes.
Sights
Most riders who tackle the BAM don’t come for the sights, though the magnificent lake Baikal can be found on the West BAM. The largest, deepest and oldest freshwater lake in the world is a sight to behold. The Chara sands are worth a small detour if time allows. This natural phenomenon needs to be seen to be believed. The tiny desert, complete with oases and roaming sand dunes, is slapped right among the pine and larch forests. There’s no transition zone and so far no one has been able to explain it.
Photo: Lupus-sapiens / CCBY
