Riding the Transfagarasan Highway is a fantastic experience for any biker, and one that should not be missed if you get the opportunity. Snaking up and over Romania’s highest mountains, the road runs for 90km and reaches an altitude of 2,042m, twisting and turning through hairpins, sweeping bends and long, dark tunnels. Also known as Ceausescu’s folly, the road was built between 1970 and 1974 as a military route and cost the lives of (officially) 40 workers, some of which are believed to be buried under the rocks and tarmac.
Planning your ride on the Transfagarasan Highway The road surface varies throughout the ride on the Transfagarasan Highway. The switchback hairpins that serpentine up to the summit and back down again are of excellent quality, the smooth tarmac ensuring a great ride. Further down the road gets fairly patchy and a bit bumpy, but it’s tarmac the entire way and a bike with road tyres will have no problems. There are fuel stations either end of the pass, so fuel shouldn’t be a concern. Best to avoid weekends, and aim for a nice weekday ride to avoid traffic.
Accommodation and food There’s no shortage of places to stay, with hotels and guest houses situated on both sides of the pass, as well as along it and at the summit. During winter, and accessible only by cable car sadly, there is an ice hotel which is quite an experience. The guest houses are very affordable and most will incorporate a restaurant for breakfast, lunch and dinner, accessible also to the general public. On a cold day a nice warming bowl of soup once you reach the summit is very welcome. Romania has some fantastic soups, from the sharp and spicy ciorba de burta (tripe soup) to the wonderful smoked pork and bean soup traditionally served in a bread bowl.
If the weather is good, there are ample opportunities to camp at both ends of the pass, either in campsites or wild. If you ask, many of the farm owners will allow you to camp in their fields for free, just watch out for curious buffalo. Sibiu and Brasov are both just over an hour away on the North side of the pass, and are both well worth a visit. Starting off at either of these towns is a good plan, and with so many great roads in the area it’s worth staying a few days at least.
Weather considerations The Transfagarasan Highway is generally closed from late October until June due to snow and ice at the summit, and can also close during summer if the weather takes a turn for the worse. Information can be found on signs in the village of Cartisoara on the North side, and at Curtea de Arges on the South side. Being a mountain pass, bear in mind that the weather can, and is likely to, change at any time. Blinding mists and rain are not uncommon along the route, and the temperature is likely to drop the closer you get to the summit. Wrap up warm and take waterproofs.
Sights There are many sights to see along the Transfagarasan Highway. Aside from the stunning natural backdrop along the entire route, look out for the beautiful lake and waterfall Balea at the highest point of the pass. Also, check out Poenari castle, just outside the village of Arefu, former residence of one Vlad the Impaler, Bram Stoker’s inspiration for Dracula. Finally, the immense Vidraru dam, which you will ride over, is well worth stopping off at. See nature and man clash and contrast in surreal beauty, under the watchful eye of a huge statue of the lightning bolt wielding, Greek titan, Prometheus.
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