Riding the North Coast 500 (NC500) by motorcycle is a must for anyone touring Scotland, or indeed the UK. The route highlights all of the best bits of the Highlands. From the twists and turns of the epic Bealach Na Ba to humble fishing villages way up North. Lined with natural beauty for each of the 516 miles, this journey is one to savour and take your time with. Five days are recommended for riding the North Coast 500, but if you don’t want to rush, consider doing it in seven. Aside from riding, there is much to see and do on this spectacular road.
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Which direction and where to start The North Coast 500 is great to ride in either direction, but we generally recommend heading anti-clockwise. In addition to the fact that this keeps you on the coastal side of the road the whole time, it also puts some of the more intense riding early, leaving the more leisurely coastal road of the east coast for your final day/s.
The official route starts and finishes in Inverness, but if you’re visiting from outside the UK it can sometimes make sense to start in either Glasgow or Edinburgh, which have better international flight connections. If you were to start in Glasgow or Edinburgh you would need to add a couple more days to your ride, but it would allow you to check out the Cairngorms National Park (and the famous Speyside whisky region) and the Loch Lomond & The Trossachs National Park, to round off a spectacular motorcycle tour of Scotland.
If you do fly into Glasgow, which has the most connections with North America, you can either get a bus or train to Inverness, with both options taking around three hours. Buses are more regular and cheaper.
Eilean Donan Castle, Dornie, Scotland Sights
The natural beauty of the dramatic scenery all along the North Coast 500 will have you pulling over and reaching for the camera time and time again. Smoo caves are well worth a visit, the waterfalls and subterranean lakes are jaw dropping. Aside from natural wonders, there are a great many ancient castles, ruins, pubs, distilleries and museums all along the route. Dunnet head is the Northernmost point of the UK, with John O’Groats being the most Northerly village.
Inverness Castle Inverness Castle is the official start and end of the North Coast 500. If you haven’t done it already, why not climb the north tower for 360 degree views of Inverness and the surrounding area, plus find out some intriguing myths and legends about the city (today the castle is a court and otherwise not open to the public).
Urquhart Castle on Loch Ness in Scotland Loch Ness You have no doubt heard tales of the world’s shyest monster. Experience it for yourself with a ride around Loch Ness. While not officially on the North Coast 500 route, for many it’s a worth detour. Brimming with history, the real gems are the castles, monuments and scenery. To get there, head out from Muir of Ord down some minor roads through, Beauly, Tomnacross and Abriachan, before joining the A82 and riding along the loch to Drumnadrochit, where you can visit the Loch Ness centre, if you are so inclined, before riding past the ruins of Urquhart Castle (N57 19.476 W4 26.481) (worth a quick stop) and on to the Southern-most point of the lake at Fort Augustus. From there you can head west across to Eilean Donan Castle, Kyle and the Isle of Skye.
Isle of Skye If you are keen for a bit more riding on your North Coast 500, the Isle of Skye is not far out of the way and well worth a visit. The bridge to the Isle of Skye is just past Kyle of Lochalsh, which is about 10 mins from the turnoff to the A890 and you can easily continue on to explore some more. If you’re into single malts, the Talisker Distillery (N57 18.149 W6 21.409) is about 45 mins from Kyle (open 9:30am to 5pm Mon-Sat and 10am-5pm on Sundays). Even if you aren’t into whiskey, the location is great. Just a bit further on and you can also go and check out the Fairy Pools (N57 15.000 W6 15.390), a series of waterfalls and pools with vibrant blue and green water.
The Quiraing, Portree, Isle of Skye Bealach Na Ba “Pass of the Cattle” (N57 25.106 W5 42.448) is a former drovers’ road provides the greatest road ascent in the UK, with a 1:5 gradient and switchbacks worthy of the Alps.
Bealach Na Ba is notorious due to its winding steep gradients, single track road and tight bends! Take your time going around this and don’t forget to take a picture at the summit. From the top you will be able to see (weather permitting) the Cuillin hills of the Isle of Skye and the Isle of Rum beyond. Find out more here.
Bealach Na Ba | Photo: Stefan Krause / CCBY
Smoo Cave Just 5 mins on from Durness too is Smoo cave (N58 33.809 W4 43.279), a dramatic and spectacular sea cave, which is well worth a visit. The cave boasts one of the largest entrances to any sea cave in Britain at 50 ft high and is floodlit inside. Smoo Cave is free to explore however there is Cave Tour available between 10am -5pm (subject to weather conditions). You’ll see it signposted on the way out of Durness towards Tongue and there is a carpark where you can leave the bikes for the short walk in.
Smoo Cave, Durness Castle & Gardens of Mey If castles are your thing, perhaps start the day by checking out the Castle & Gardens of Mey (N58 38.847 W3 13.489). Bought and renovated by The Queen Mother, the Royals still visit the castle (and it’s opening can vary because of this, so need to check beforehand). It’s only just off the route, so worth a quick dtour even if you just want to check it out from the outside.
Whaligoe Steps Stop off for a bite to eat Whaligoe Steps Cafe (N58 20.759 W3 09.769) (+44 (0) 1955 651702) (open Thurs-Sun) – before descending on to Whaligoe Haven by the 330 steps! There are a number of secluded harbours dotted around the Highlands. However one of the most remarkable natural harbours is just outside of Ulbster. Reached by the Whaligoe steps, all 330 of them! The Whaligoe steps descend into Whaligoe Haven. Take care when walking down, very steep with unprotected vertical drops into the sea, treacherous when the steps are wet.
Camster Cairns If you fancy a little detour to check out some prehistoric history, the Camster Cairns (N58 22.811 W3 16.051) are the most impressive of the prehistoric burial sites on the coast. Originally built five thousand years ago, they are dry-stone mounds that you can go inside and explore. To get there turn right off the A99 at Occumster and it’s a 10 min ride to the carpark.
Planning your ride on the North Coast 500
A tarmac road runs for the entire length of the route, although it is not always the smoothest surface. On the whole however, most road bikes should handle the road without issue. The road is fairly narrow for much of its length, often reduced to a single track with passing points. Until recently the road was rarely used by anyone other than locals driving from one village or town to another. In recent years an increasing number of tourists have taken to the road to see if Scotland’s “route 66” lives up to the hype. With this in mind, be prepared to encounter camper-vans aplenty, as well as just about any other type of recreational vehicle you can think of during peak seasons. Miles go by fairly slowly in this part of the world, with the combination of fantastic sights, photo opportunities, small roads and traffic. Do not let this put you off however, as there is much to be seen and it’s a fantastic route to take your time with
Fuel is fairly readily available, mostly within towns. Don’t expect every village to have a petrol station however and some sections can go for several miles without fuel. It is worth filling up if your fuel tank is below half way just to be sure.
Photo: Phillip Capper / CC BY 2.0
Accommodation and food
There are a wide variety of places to stay all along the North Coast 500, with more or less every village offering at least one option. From campsites to castle hotels and everything in between you’re bound to find something to meet your needs and budget. In the middle of Summer, it may be worth booking in advance. If you enjoy flexibility campsites will generally have space for a motorcycle and a tent and several offer small cabins or bunkhouses if the weather is poor. Also, rooms can normally be found online and booked the same day you wish to arrive. As with accommodation, food is readily available along the route. There is an abundance of fantastic seafood available, alongside many traditional Scottish delicacies such as haggis. From pub grub to high dining, all can be found. It is also worth taking a supply of food with you for lunch, as it is likely you’ll find a great spot for a break and a picnic.
Photo: Donald Bain / CC BY-SA 2.0
Weather considerations for the North Coast 500
Scotland is notorious for changeable weather, with rain common and four seasons in one day fairly normal. Decent wet weather gear is a must for riding the North Coast 500 at any time of the year. The route is mostly open throughout the year, with the mountain pass of Bealach Na Ba to Applecross occasionally being shut in poor weather. Snow gates at the bottom of the road will close in this instance. We wouldn’t recommend heading up there in winter anyway as a lot of the accommodation, sights and restaurants shut for the winter months.
Fuel Fuel is fairly readily available along the route and there is no stretch that should push any of bike, but it is a good habit to fill up whenever you can.
Convenient fuel:
Fort Augustus – A82 (N57 08.764 W4 40.885) – open 08:00-20:00 Mon-Sun. Kyle of Lochalsh – A87 (N57 16.862 W5 42.670) – open 09:00-17:00 Mon-Sat, closes at 16:30 on Sun Locharron – A896 (N57 24.245 W5 28.824) – open 07:00-20:00 Mon-Sat. Applecross – Garage on Shore St (N57 26.012 W5 48.831) – self-service 24/7. Kinlochewe – On A382 (N57 36.301 W5 18.301) – open 08:00-19:00 Mon-Sat, closes at 18:00 on Sun. Gairloch – A382 (N57 43.295 W5 41.191) – self-service 24/7. Ullapool – A385 (N57 53.811 W5 09.220) – open 07:30-21:00 Mon-Sat, 08:30-19:00 on Sun. Lochinver – A837 (N58 09.229 W5 14.400) – open 08:00-18:30 Mon-Sat, 09:00-17:30 on Sun. Scourie – A894 (N58 21.105 W5 09.171) – self-service 24/7. Durness – A838 (N58 34.109 W4 44.766) – self-service 24/7. Thurso – A9 (N58 35.526 W3 31.087) – open 07:00-22:00 Mon-Sat, 08:00-22:00 on Sun. Wick – A99 (N58 27.122 W3 05.983) – self-service 24/7. Brora – A9 (N58 00.873 W3 51.222) – open 08:00-20:00 Mon-Sun. Morangie/Tain – B9174 (N57 48.269 W4 02.858) – open 07:00-23:00 Mon-Sun. Muir of Ord – Great North Road (N57 31.178 W4 27.698) – open everyday 06:30-22:00. Phone Signal All of the main UK networks cover the Highlands, but you will still find many places along the route where there is no signal. Something to keep in mind when you are on the road. Locals can help you find the best spots for signal if you need it in towns.
Local traffic on the North Coast 500
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